Description
When your tractor’s power doesn’t get where it needs to go, everything stops. Maybe you’re hearing grinding noises when the PTO engages, feeling excessive vibration through the drivetrain, or noticing that coupling between your engine and hydraulic pump isn’t transferring power like it should. This drive shaft coupler restores that critical connection, getting your tractor back to moving power smoothly from one component to another.
What You’re Getting
- Precision 7/8 inch bore fits standard tractor drive shafts with tight tolerances
- 3/16 inch keyway provides positive engagement to prevent slipping under load
- 1-1/2 inch outside diameter and 2-3/4 inch length designed for heavy-duty applications
- Quality steel construction built to handle the torque and vibration of farm work
- Direct replacement design eliminates the guesswork of modifications
Built for Real Farm Work
This coupler serves duty in various tractor systems where shafts need to be connected – from hydraulic pump drives to PTO applications and auxiliary equipment drives. You’ll find these dimensions on mid-size utility tractors, older model farm tractors, and specialty equipment where reliable power transfer matters. Whether you’re running a hay baler, operating hydraulics, or powering auxiliary equipment, this coupler handles the job.
Made to Last
Farm couplers take constant abuse from shock loads, vibration, and the start-stop nature of tractor operations. This one’s manufactured from quality steel that resists wear and fatigue cracking. The precise bore and keyway dimensions ensure full contact area for maximum torque transfer, while the outside diameter provides plenty of material for long service life.
Good to Know
Installation is straightforward – slide it onto the shaft, align the keyway, and secure per your equipment’s specifications. Always check that both shaft and keyway are clean and free of burrs before installation. If you’re replacing a worn coupler, it’s smart to inspect the mating shaft and key for wear at the same time – sometimes a damaged shaft or worn keyway is what killed the original coupler.






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